The etymology of Phulkari – it takes the name from two Sanskrit words Phul meaning flower and kari meaning  work. Therefore, it means flower work. This art mainly concentrates on  floral designs and geometric figures. However, people in Hind and Sikh  also included objects from everyday life.

SWATI PHULKARI

When we trace the origin, we can say that it is rather blurred. Some say that the craft is mentioned in Rig Vedas of Aryans. Few say it must have originated from Scythians or Iraninas. Phulkari embroidery  was initially made for personal and domestic use such as skirts, bed  spreads, pillow cases, shawl, wall hangings etc..,  Only very few people  make use of this and are widely displayed in museums or bought for  personal use.  

Phulkari is traditional embroidery of India and Pakistan. The base cloth is called the Khaddar,  which is a rough and sturdy cotton fabric. The embroidery is made using  soft and glossy silk thread or cotton threads. This craft is passed on  to generation i.e. from mother to daughter. Therefore, every household  has women who are expertise in this craft. Moreover all the motifs and  patterns are not repetitive or a copied one.

This embroidery is different from  all other embroideries in two ways. First because of the darning stitch,  this is a simple straight row of stitches woven in and out of the  fabric. By counting the number of threads in the khaddar,  stitch was controlled and the variations in the length of the stitch  create the geometric design. Chain stitches were used to outline a motif  and satin stitches to fill them.

SWATI PHULKARI

Second  and most important aspect is that it is stitched on the reverse side of  the fabric. A single numerical error is enough to destroy the symmetry  and the beauty of the entire piece of work!

In swat the phulkari embroidery is made with bright, vibrant colors on a dark background. A women’s skirt with the phulkari embroidery  is the classic example of swat valley. It is a beautiful example of how  the localities adapted the art in their own taste.  Mostly black or  indigo-blue color khaddar cloth is used. A florescent pink or maroon  thread was used for motifs. Sometimes the bright yellow thread is used  to highlight the motifs. These contrasting colors enhance the beauty of  the art.

Shawls, table cloths, pillow  cases, fire fans are embroidered with phulkari. The designs include  diamond shape discs, triangle etc.., A unique pattern of Ram’s horn was  used which is the ancient symbol for power and fertility. Some designs  can be traced back to 1000 years!! ​ A special type of Phulkari shawl is called Bagh (garden in Farsi) was stitched for special occasions. Baghs are generally heavily embroidered such that the background is almost not seen.

SWATI PHULKARI